The August 2007 Odyssey--San Juan & Gulf Islands Aboard Whisper

Some Favorite Images--



















This was the final gathering in Port Townsend, Aug 4th.

















First stop on August 5th, Roche Harbor.














While Natalie remains traumatized after being forced to fly as co-pilot, Dolly continues to refuse to show her true feelings.

Natalie proves she can sail in Annette Inlet.

First glorious sunset in Annette Inlet.

The next morning Natalie thought Whisper's dinghy was gone. It was. I was out rowing around talking photos.

Alan installs new foredeck hardware for the trip to Chemainus.

Natalie finds a new friend in Chemainus who really has time to listen.

Princess Cove sunset.

An alternative description for Northwest Harvest.

Whisper rides at anchor in Conover Cove.

Sunset from Conover Cove.

Making journal entries while under sail.

A new sign hangs in Wallace Island Cabin.

I still don't believe a 0200 crab feed.

Mount Baker looms over Winter Cove & Saturna Island.

At anchor in Winter Cove.
















Sunset from Winter Cove.

Boat Pass between Saturna & Samuel Islands.









A second night sunset in Winter Cove.












Final morning sunrise over the San Juan Islands.












The back bay in Port Ludlow. A 19 boat SSYC raft.

All ready for next year, bring on Desolation Sound.

Disclaimer: this blogger formatting sucks! You're shooting blind and then once you post you can't edit. I hope this looks okay!?!

The August 2007 Odyssey--San Juan & Gulf Islands Aboard Whisper

Lessons Learned--

We all don't have to make ALL of our own mistakes. It is possible to learn from the public domain, like Ben Franklin teaching us to not fly a kite with a wire in a lightening storm. I have friend Walter to thank for teaching me to check carefully when topping off water tanks to insure that the word DIESEL is not on the filler cap, and now at great personal expense he has taught us that there are times to be sure that DIESEL is on the filler cap.

During this past month I have learned more than my share of lessons! I will recount some of them for you here...

#6. Without a firm floatplan in place, I ended up purchasing three Canadian fishing licenses, one 3 day and two 5 day. It would have been cheaper to buy an annual tidal license, and I will next year.

#5. I can live on 12 volts! Since leaving Point Hudson in Port Townsend on August 5th, we were rafted to Blue Fin or on the hook all but three nights.

#4. While advised that my Yanmar is most efficient running at 3400 RPMs, I discovered that advise to be defficient. Depending upon the currents, we covered a lot of water and nautical miles at 1500, 2200 but never more than 2800 RPMs, UNLESS trying to keep up with Alan Vogt on Blue Fin.

#3. If you have 100' of line on your crab pot it is best to set it in less than 100' of water at highest tide. Seems axiomatic doesn't it? When you set from the dinghy it is not so simple, unless you have a handheld depth wand like Steve Dauzenroth. In the future I will either set from Whisper or at least cruise over the crabbing site to determine depths prior to a dinghy set after anchoring.

Bye bye, buy crab pot.

#2. If you or an acquaintance have a counter-top hinged refrigerator lid on a boat that is not dogged or restrained in some way in the open position, if you care about the count of your fingers, fix it NOW!

This is what the hinged portion of Whisper's refrigerator look like before it came down to remove a piece of the 5th digit on my left hand.

On the counter top to the left are the pieces of my solution: a 9" spring and 2 pad eyes which were installed to look like this. When opened you have to remember to check the spring, which I find to be a good reminder.

Solution installed.

...and now a drumroll for the single most important lesson:

#1. Because of all that has happened, the best lesson is summed up in Wendy Vogt's comment: Joe, just slow down! Thank you Wendy.

With the learning curve of these experiences I look forward to the challenge of the passage to Desolaton Sound next August.

To follow in the next day or two will be a gallery of some of my favorite images...

The August 2007 Odyssey--San Juan & Gulf Islands Aboard Whisper

Whisper Log 8 --

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 29TH— 0625 The sky is pink to the south as we ride at anchor in Genoa Bay on Vancouver Island.

Since I didn’t get to T&J Café in Ganges to email Whisper Log 7, you may be concerned that we got sucked into some black hole. The black hole is a lack of internet connectivity here in the Gulf Islands.

At the public dock in Ganges I met Arnold & Donna Lyon from Helena, MT. Arnold is a retired periodontist and they like to spend their winters skiing at Silverbow in Montana and summers on Silverbow, their McGregor 26. There will be a winter trip skiing with them in Montana in my future. We compared cruising notes and it set my course to move west from Ganges.
Leaving the public dock I went out to Third Sister Island to retrieve the crab pot. Fresh crab for breakfast! I reset the trap & anchored Whisper.

Monday night was a beautiful moonrise, nearly full, over Ganges Harbour.
In the morning Donna & Arnold were to hit the bakery and then join me on Whisper for crab crepes. I successfully augmented the recipe with pine nuts. Arnold & Donna approved.

The anchor came up and we said our final goodbye to Ganges for this summer. We’ll be back. The crab pot again worked it’s magic and I met MONSTRO the 8” Dungeness. You will hear more about him later in the day.
Fulford Harbour was the first stop for a walk about. It never happened. The marina wanted $5 docking fee and the public dock was both rundown and full. I just left Fulford in my stern. In my cruising record Fulford is synonymous with forget about it. Rounding the south end of Salt Spring Island our next destination was to overnight in Genoa Bay.

The wind piped up to 13 knots, providing us with a great reach & then broad reach across Satellite Channel. While under sail I decided it was timely to clean Monstro & his rock crab companion. With every intention of retaining Monstro’s shell as a record, I was so caught up in my cleaning routine that I only realized what I had done as I saw his shell disappear below the surface behind me. Oh well!

Pulling into Genoa Bay we decided on the shallow NE side and anchored with 16’ under the keel. I dinghyed ashore to discover limited connectivity to the internet. As I was returning to the Avon I recognized Black Cat from Seattle Marina. I walked down the dock to introduce myself to Jeff, my Seattle neighbor.

Back on Whisper we were treated to an aerial ballet as two Golden Eagles were soaring in the thermals above the island. The next tasks were to cook the crab, shell the crab and prepare dinner. On this evening’s menu was penne pasta al dente with Classico Alfredo sauce with pine nuts &, of course, fresh crab dusted with Parmesan cheese. Dessert was to be fresh blackberries with whipped cream.

Really! That is just one crab.

In Jewish tradition, when the Passover Seder meal is served, a place is set for one more than the attending guests in case Elijah shows. Well I followed that tradition in setting YOU a place…
but you never came.

With dishes done and Whisper shipshape, I turned in by 2130 with the full moon yet to rise over the tree line.

After retrieving a crab pot devoid of both bait and crab I made ready to leave Genoa Bay. With the promise of both WIFI & phone service I weighed anchor ready to make for Cowichan Bay a short distance away. On my way out of the bay I noted that the couple on Skaggerak, a Hanse 400 were in the cockpit. I detoured to tell them, I wish I had your boat and you had a nicer one. They smiled and gave me a thumbs up. Under a cloudless azure blue sky we left Genoa Bay in our wake.

Arriving in Cowichan Bay I learned that in Canada all public docks have red railings. I tied Whisper to the dock and went to check in with the harbourmaster (this IS Canada). I further learned that the lime green stripes where I had secured indicates transient moorage, free until 1600.

I went in search of WIFI. As I walked the street of Cowichan Bay I found the Rock Cod Café. Great breakfast with coffee for $7.69 Canadian. I tried the internet, NO LUCK. A short walk to the hotel lobby, and here I am.

Leaving Cowichan I lay a course for Winter Cove. Wednesday night there, a day of sailing in Plumper Sound with explorations of Lyall Harbour, Boot Cove and Hope Bay. Thursday night again in Winter Cove with a farewell sunset.

Leaving at 0600 Friday morning provided outstanding sunrise views over the San Juan Islands.
Here we are clearing the southern most tip of Saturna Island as we enter Boundary Channel.

With the current speeding us along at times up to 8.4 knots SOG, we tied up at the U.S. Customs dock in Friday Harbor by 0900. Again greeting David & Kerry Freeland at our Front Street Cafe, Kerry had just flown in for the transit south, I logged onto the internet to post Whisper Log 7.

Back aboard Whisper, we clear the dock on our way to Cattle Pass. While timing may not be everything, it sure helps when it comes to tides & currents!

Cattle Pass gave us 10.3 knots with casual RPMs. Once in the Strait of Juan de Fuca we found rain coming off the north side of the Olympic Penninsula. With winds of 8 knots on the beam, we altered course to quarter the waves and hoisted sail abreast of Smith Island.

The sails did not come down until the light on the NW point of Marrowstone Island. You can see the current chop in the waters off of Point Wilson that gave us 9.5 knots. Thank You!

Looking over my right shoulder I had this view of blue sky over the San Juan Islands. I was forced to ask myself, Why am I returning?

There is already much to look forward to for next year in parts north.

By 1800 I had dropped anchor in the back bay of Port Ludlow after filling the diesel tank at the fuel dock. Whisper last had her diesel drink on Sunday, August 26th, prior to our last week in the Gulf Islands and she now only took 14.5 gallons. I like the math! We covered a lot of water in that time.

Saturday, September 1st

After sleeping in untill 0800, I went into Port Ludlow for laundry, shower and blackberries. Around 1400 the first of what was to become a record 19 boat raft arrived.

Seafaringly, your skipper,
Joe Grande
joe_grande@msn.com

The August 2007 Odyssey--San Juan & Gulf Islands Aboard Whisper

Whisper Log 7 --

MONDAY AUGUST 27TH—
0826 As I begin this we are at anchor in Bedwell Harbour. A lot of catching up to do…
Jane & Anita did arrive Friday night at 9:45 and , yes, I did shower.

We stowed their gear on Whisper and headed to the local tavern where the band, Mid-Life Crisis was blaring their version of rock’n roll. We met Steve, Bob & Bud, you can ask the girls about them…. About 0030 I reminded them that I had 2 crab that needed to be cooked. With every intention of just cooking them tonight, we returned to Whisper for a 0200 crab feed.

In the morning it was crab crepes followed by blackberry crepes prepared by the resident chef.

With a destination of Deer Harbor, we left the dock. With the promise of wind and favorable currents our course was laid out along Upright & Harney Channels, through Wasp Passage to Deer Harbor.

While the girls went on safari for blackberries, the skipper set out the crab pot. They were more successful than the crab pot. With the berry larder supplied and a gusty south wind blowing we decided that Jones Island would provide a calmer anchorage. With all of the buoys taken we found a corner where we could anchor with a stern tie to shore. It worked.

Sunday morning we rode the current to Friday Harbor. After fueling & leaving them with their gear, I aimed Whisper to breakwater A (BWA) where there was space on the inside. After securing Whisper, I noticed Sea Star, Bill Rowlands boat just 2 boats away. Walking to meet the girls for breakfast at the Front Street Café I ran into Bill. He turned around & joined my walk. We was awaiting the arrival of his daughter, son-in-law & sister on the same ferry that would return Jane & Anita to Anacortes.

After breakfast, we said our goodbyes and I went in search of parts to construct a spool for 400’ of poly stern line. Although it required walking all the way to Browne’s up by the airport, it was a success. With my power tools aboard I should be able to work on it tomorrow in Ganges.

The current chart directed me on a course up San Juan Channel, taking Speiden Island on the port side and then passing Stuart Island on my starboard. It worked.

Winds were fluky in the channel beginning at 12 knots and dropping to 2. We ended up motor sailing under main until the winds settled in from the NE once we cleared the west end of Stuart.

While passing the south end of Stuart I was forced to alter course as first one and then another purse seiner began to set their nets. With Admiral, the second one, I decided to hang around and watch.

As I mentioned, once the wind kicked up to 10 to 13 knots, the genoa was unfurled and we went to sail. We crossed Boundary Channel in record time pegging 8.4 knots at one point. We sailed into Bedwell Harbor, dropped sail and made for Canadian Customs for a third time.

The plans for this week have changed again. After deciding and sharing that decision via email, Alan Vogt left me a terse voicemail, “JOE, DON’T DO IT!” A cooler head has prevailed and I will explore some new & now familiar anchorages in these Gulf Islands. As always, today we will continue our search for the mother of all Dungeness crabs (although this mother will be a male).

We will weigh anchor here at 1000 with a favorable current and make our way leisurely to Ganges, setting the pot along the way.

1300—The pot is set west of Second Sister Island in 40’ of water and Whisper is secured to the public dock for 3 hours. I will check the pot on the circular trip to set the hook here for the night.

Along the way I encountered the source for one of Jane & Anita’s pet phrases, “Make your move early & obvious.”
I don’t think they were referring to nautical navigation. We will have to see how they navigate at the next SSYC dance.
The now familiar harbour of Ganges.

Off to Thrifty Foods for Reddi-Wip & crab bait. I will see the rafters in Port Ludlow on Saturday.

Seafaringly, your skipper,
Joe Grande
joe_grande@msn.com

The August 2007 Odyssey--San Juan & Gulf Islands Aboard Whisper

Whisper Log 6 --

FRIDAY AUGUST 24TH—
At 0600 I was on the foredeck pulling the anchor and preparing to slip from Montague Harbor. I didn’t sleep well last night. Too much excitement and opportunities. I took the Hummingbird Bus for dinner. While waiting for it I phoned both Walter Friesen & Bonnie Rieser to invite them to come north, neither of whom answered. I left no voicemail. Twenty minutes later I tried Bonnie again & she answered. They are in Prideau Harbor in DESOLATION SOUND!

At dinner I met and then shared a table with Darlene & Bob Brown from Portland. Bob is a retired engineer and their Catalina 380 is kept in Port Hadlock. THEY are on their way back from Desolation Sound. So do I wait and plan for next year? I think not! After saying goodbye to Jane & Anita on Sunday, Whisper’s bow may just turn further NORTH.

Approaching Active Pass from the west.

By 0800 we, Whisper & I, were passing down the northeast side of Samuel & Saturna Islands opposite Winter Cove, a favorite anchorage, thanks to Alan Vogt, with both sunset & sunrise views.

Saturna foreground with Orcas looming over fog.

Turning 2800 RPMs the speed varied from 4.2 to 7.5 knots. It’s all about the current. Saw several dolphin but no eagles or orcas.

Fog rising over Shaw Island.

Tied up to the Customs dock right at 1145. All in all, good time and a good trip!

Lots to do prior to Jane & Anita’s arrival at 2130: see about propylene line for Desolation Sound, set crab trap off Brown Island, fill propane & dinghy tanks, laundry, retrieve trap, connect shore power, send log 5, compose this and, oh yes, shower.
Is there a sailboat attached to that mast floating above San Juan Channel; is she coming or going?

Seafaringly, your skipper,
Joe Grande
joe_grande@msn.com

The August 2007 Odyssey--San Juan & Gulf Islands Aboard Whisper

Whisper Log 5 --

THURSDAY, AUGUST 23RD—
The days are counting down. I have already written in my journal this morning and I won’t repeat it here. Where I left off was my leaving Whisper to hang the new SSYC/Whisper sign in the Wallace Island cabin at Conover Cove.

While this photo is from last week, it does show the exterior of the cabin with the only remaining Wallace Island virgins who just happened to be walking by. Notice the walking stick in the tall one’s hand, or could that be a suitor beater?

So the sign is finished and it has found a home in the right hand side of the cabin right below Morning Dew and on the flip side of Blue Fin.

As I write this Whisper rides at anchor in Montague Harbour. There really isn’t very much here and I debated (an easy argument with no one to take the other side) whether to continue on to Plumper Sound for the night. The Hummingbird Bus won out so I will stay here for the bus ride and hope that they have WIFI there.

The current chart says that I will leave here promptly in the morning to catch a strong ebb in the Strait of Georgia which I will run down to President’s Channel on the west side of Orcas. I will clear U.S. Customs in Friday Harbor and take my reserved slip for the night.

This image is sunset in Montague Harbour.

The crabbing for the Gulf Islands is over for this trip since I have four in the refer. Jane, Anita & I will try Saturday in Deer Harbor.

Seafaringly your skipper,
Joe Grande
joe_grande@msn.com

The August 2007 Odyssey--San Juan & Gulf Islands Aboard Whisper

Whisper Log 4 --

TUESDAY AUGUST 21, 2007—
Today has been a busy day—sure, sure I know not as busy as yours. Woke up & rolled out at 0505 to take my antibiotic and discovered that it was raining rather hard. First decision: take 2 pain pills for the sleeping and go back to bed. At 0800 the moisture was down to a drizzle and then just fog. Went to check on the crab trap of last night. Found one rock crab of size. Relocated trap to deeper water and baited with turkey drumstick. I waited in the dinghy for 25 minutes. No luck so back to Whisper after releasing rock crab.

Pulled the anchor and headed to Ganges to make contact with my doctor of last week. I stopped outside the harbor in 60 feet of water and put down the crab trap. While nearing Ganges I thought I saw Dave Freeland’s boat at anchor. Sighting confirmed, I swung by to say hello.

I went to the public dock and tied up. Stopped at the Chamber of Commerce to get Dr. De Kock’s number and address. After speaking with the doctor, the receptionist gave me a 3:45 appointment. While walking to his office, my phone rang; the doctor had to leave on a call. I picked blackberries on my way back to the marina. I had planned that part of it as I had a 2 qt container with me.
Since the crab pot was at the mouth of the harbor and at 4:00 (1600) you have to be away from the dock or pay for the night, it was time to check for crab. One third of the way and a phone call; the doctor is back and will only be there until 4:30. I u-turn to the harbor (oops harbour since we are in Canada—my spellchecker considers the British spelling incorrect), dropped anchor and dinghyed to the dinghy dock. I got to his office by 4:15 (1615). He is pleased with the progress and that is good news.

Back in the harbour I take the dinghy ride to visit the trap. The roundtrip takes more than a tank of fuel. In raising the trap I figure I either am successful or have another starfish. The results you see in the photo are 8 Dungeness, but 6 of them are female so back they go.

Since there was so much meat left on the turkey bone, I decided to reset the trap within the harbor. I also noticed a nice sandy beach on the Chain Islands to go ashore in the morning in search of driftwood for a sign for the cabin on Wallace Island; more about that later…

With my work cut out for me, you can imagine how I spent the evening. My two crabs and I spent the evening bonding for about an hour & a half. This next image could be called “One down & one to go…” but I prefer “The Harvest”.
Campbell’s Soups may claim that they are “M-M-M Good!” but I will take a Gulf Islands Harvest anytime!

Seafaringly your skipper,
Joe Grande
joe_grande@msn.com